I is for Implements (spanking implements)

I is for Implements


Implements… mmmm…. What submissive fantasies are made of. Implements can be just about anything that the Dominant can use to properly spank the submissive with. This thread is in no way inclusive & is designed to simply provide a basic background on implements. Further info can be found at your local BDSM group or specialty store. Be properly weary of information found on the net—spanking is hard to explain in words, and by necessity must be taught & experienced in practice. Enjoy!


Safety:
Above all, PRACTICE BEFORE YOU PLAY!!! Impact play is some of the most enjoyable but potentially harmful play. Ensure you know what you are doing before you get anywhere near your sub’s body. Also, squirming can be a major problem with implements. When first learning, make sure the submissive is immobile—one squirm in the wrong direction can lead to intense pain & a ruined scene.

Areas of the body to avoid:

• Anywhere where bone is close to the surface of the body, or major blood supply routes
• The head or neck
• The lower back where the kidneys rest
• Spine, tailbone
• Sides of the hips

-> Stay on “meaty” parts of the submissive, such as the ass. Before using an implement on breasts or penises, make sure you & the submissive have adequate experience & knowledge of the implement.

How to Practice:
It is best to start with a basic implement, then work your way up (i.e. from crop à flogger à single tail whip). Once you’ve purchased the implement, you need to practice its use before trying it on your submissive. To do this, first use a pillow, lay it lengthwise on the bed & experiment with frequency, intensity & amplitude. See what happens when you hit differently. Once you have accurate aim with the implement, use it on yourself; yes, yourself. There is no better way to know how something feels then to feel it yourself. If you are going to use it on a submissive’s sensitive areas, try it on your own first to see how it feels.
Practice, Practice, Practice!!!!!!

Trying it for the First Time:
When you are ready to try the implement for the first time with your submissive, it’s best to not try it in a new setting—i.e. try the implement when it is the only new variable in the play—don’t try it out the first time in a public play setting if you aren’t used to that, or in a hard core play session. You want the submissive to get “the feel” of the implement, you need practice actually using it and in order for you to know how it feels for the sub, you need to be able to have communication with them—to that end, when trying a new implement, do not gag the submissive—allow them the power of speech, for 2 different reasons: it allows them their safewords, and you can increase the pleasurable effects the first time by getting constant feedback from the sub. Start slow, as your accuracy gets better & you get comfortable, you can increase the intensity. Also, often warming up the sub’s ass first with a hand spanking can enhance the comfort level of the implement when first used.
Better safe & slow then sorry!!!

Time & Experience will Condition the Submissive
Over time, the use of an implement can leave the submissive “conditioned” to it—in other words, their tolerance for it increases and they can take drastically longer, harder sessions of the implement before they reach their limit. Make sure you switch out implements—you should never be hitting to an extreme—this “immunity” will disappear in 1-2 weeks of disuse.

How Long?
At the beginning, the implement shouldn’t be used for long durations—use for only 5-10min. Over time, some implements, such as the flogger, can be used for longer scenes (45+ min). However, make sure that both the Dominant & submissive know the safety risks, safewords & feeling of the implement before you increase duration. Also, switching between implements can increase the overall time of the spanking scene.

Bruising/Marks
Some people bruise easily, some don’t. Some love bruises, some hate them. Be VERY alert when you are striking your submissive. Know ahead of time where marks are/aren’t acceptable. Blood is NEVER (unless you are an extremely experienced player, and even then, not often) acceptable. If you draw blood, stop IMMEDIATELY & tend to the wound. Your strikes shouldn’t draw blood—thus, don’t hit that hard. Pleasure is gained from frequent intensity, not from skin-tearing intensity. Be smart.
Some implements tend to leave much larger marks than others. Here is a general “guideline” on bruising for a large segment of the submissive population… Remember: many people don’t bruise the same way, so exercise care!

• Crops: Crops generally don’t leave marks unless they’re used in the same spot at high intensity for a good duration. They might leave a red mark, but it will disappear within minutes most of the time.
• Paddles: Paddles can leave bruising, depending on type & intensity. Generally however, paddles just leave the ass red for a few minutes (up to a few hours).
• Straps/Belts: These can leave marks depending on a few things… First, if the strap is used at a high enough intensity, it can definitely leave bruises and welts. A belt can also leave bruises & welts, but generally these are limited to the area where the end of the belt impacts the body.
• Floggers: Floggers warm the ass & as such, can leave the ass extremely hot & red, but will have no lasting bruises unless the flogger is of poor quality or there has been wrapping (see flogger section for description on wrapping).
• Canes: Canes are going to leave marks. For how long? A good bit of time. Know this ahead of time: your ass will be sore.

After Care
After care is EXTREMELY important. Clean & tend to the implement as well as the submissive to keep both around longer J. A good, topical lotion can be a great thing for a sore ass or other sore areas—use a lotion that is not perfumed & one that doesn’t have anything unnecessary in it. Aussies swear by emu oil, many Americans like an aloe-base. Again, it’s your preference. Lotions will help with the healing process especially for intense marks, such as cane marks.

Implements (from easiest to hardest to learn & master):

The Hand
An over-the-knee (otk) spanking is the cheapest, best way to start learning the ways of spanking. There’s not much that needs to be said about how to spank—it’s a bit about trial & error. Watch the aim, intensity & frequency of the spanking. Some submissives love hand spankings, whereas others loathe them—know your submissive & what works for you. Hand spankings can be excellent foreplay & “warm up” to other spanking implements.

Household Implements
This is a GREAT place to start!!! Wooden spoons, rulers, hairbrushes, and many other things are a great way for a Dominant to practice spanking with an implement. It is also a good way for the submissive to know what implements might feel like. Do you enjoy a sharp sting or a more dull pain? A pinpoint, intense feeling or a more dispersed, dull feeling? The more you can know about the likes of both the Dominant & submissive, the easier it will be to find the right implement when you are ready to purchase one. This isn’t to say experienced players don’t use household implements—oh they do—they are great for an improvised spanking…hehe…

Crops
Crops are some of the most commonly used implements because they are simple to “learn” & are pretty cost efficient. Crops can be purchased both at specialty & at general adult stores. When looking for a good crop, watch how the end of the crop is attached to the pole, look at the length & material of both the end & the pole, and the way the crop feels in your hand. Crops come in many different shapes & sizes—most of the differences are cosmetic in nature. Stay away from plastic—there are no quality implements made from plastic, lol.
Crops are good to hit smaller, harder to reach areas on the sub. However, before experimenting in these places, be sure you know how much your submissive can handle—start by using a crop on the ass. Remember: the smaller the place, the more sensitive it is. Be gentle at first, make sure your submissive can handle more intense strikes.
Crops are also great for teasing—running it up your sub’s inner legs or along their shoulders can make even the most hardened subs shudder.

Paddles
Paddles are a good place to start for a “hardcore” implement because they generally have a large surface area, so it’s hard to “miss.” The key with a paddle is to hit the meatest area of the ass. Paddles should be used almost exclusively on the ass, as their size & awkwardness makes them hard to use elsewhere. Paddles come in various shapes & sizes—these are just dependent on what the user likes. However, leather paddles generally have a softer kiss than wooden paddles, so start with a leather paddle—they are more flexible & part of the impact can be absorbed by the rebound, whereas a wooden paddle’s impact is completely absorbed by the body.

Straps, belts & the like
Straps are a step up from crops and are pretty similar to a thick belt. DO NOT buy straps that have sharp protrusions from the leather strap or anything that can bloody the skin when it hits—these sorts of straps are made for looks, not function. Also, never hit with the belt buckle on a belt—although it sounds good in theory, it can do serious damage in practice. Straps & belts function as a cross between a paddle & a crop—made out of leather, they are often used by experienced players as a basic part of their implement arsenal. Straps & belts are often less instantly pleasurable & are more intense then their crop or paddle counterparts. The hit stings at first, then the submissive will feel a sharp warming pain after.

Floggers
Floggers, also called cat ‘o nine tails, come in all shapes & sizes. The difference between the materials of the floggers is the difference in how they feel when they land on the skin. Feel it out in your hand—does the weight feel right? What does the material of the tails feel like when they hit the back of your hand? With floggers, quality comes at a price: cheap rubber floggers, while easier to buy because of cost, are much more dangerous then, say, deerskin floggers which are 5-10x the price. However, when you’re talking about safety, price should be no obstacle: Save your money until you can get a good flogger. If possible, go to a local store that specializes in BDSM, or call one, and get information on the flogger you want—how hard is it to control? How long are the tails? Does it hit with a sting or more of a thump?
Learning how to flog can be difficult. As always, the best way is to find someone who knows how to flog & have them teach you. Absent that, practice on your own—you control the flogger with the wrist, so find a wrist maneuver that works for you. Watch for wrapping—this happens when one or more of the tails wraps itself around the area you are hitting—for instance, if aiming for the ass, it can wrap around to the front of the hip. If this occurs, stop, look at the wrap mark, make sure it’s ok and then proceed. Wrapping can cause intense pain to the submissive depending on where it is—but generally, this pain is instant & will dissipate.
Flogging feels like a “thump” generally—it isn’t a sharp sting. If the tails hit in a clump, it will be a more intense, pinpointed feel, whereas if the tails are spread, a more dull, dissipated warmth will be felt.

Canes
Canes are EXTREMELY dangerous & should ONLY be used once the Dominant has had proper instruction by another Dominant. Canes are so dangerous because they are harder to control & their pinpoint, piercing, intense pain is an incredibly intense experience for the submissive (have I said intense yet?) Additionally, canes have the ability to break the skin & leave long lasting marks. Canes require a high level of accuracy—the cane must strike on the ass in just the right way, or it can have a painful (not in the good way) effect for the submissive. Many Dominants enjoy “striping” their submissive’s ass—making multiple cane lines across the submissive’s ass. Again, this should only be attempted after experience & with great caution.
With this in mind… There are many different types of canes: wooden, rattan, fiberglass… There isn’t enough space or depth in this thread to really get into the differences, but if you want to buy a good quality, safe cane, get it at a specialty Lifestyle store. If you can’t go to one, call one—not an online toy vendor, folks, a real store. The store employees will be able to provide good information on which cane is right for you…

Rhythmic Flogging/Caning
This is when the Dominant flogs/canes so that the impact on the body is synchronous to the beat of music. This shouldn’t be tried by inexperienced players OR by experienced players who don’t feel that they have the utmost control. This is often a technique best taught in person by another Dominant so that you can see how it works… as the beat increases in intensity, so does the beating. Use with EXTREME caution!!!!

Whips
Whips. Hm. First & foremost: the crack of the whip should take place just off of the skin—that’s where the intense experience comes in. The vibration/shock of the crack is what the submissive should feel—NOT the whip itself. This is why experience is SO important when using whips.
NEVER use a bull whip unless you are an experienced player being spotted by another experienced player. “Experienced player” in this case refers to BOTH the Dominant AND the submissive!!!! I am not going to discuss bull whips more because they are SO dangerous & generally not functional for most folks.
Single tail whip technique can be learned from another Dominant, but shouldn’t be experimented with on your own. They have a high ability to cause injury if used improperly. Single tail whips painfully sting on impact & will leave a mark as well. Use caution.


Other Links on the Forums:
Are you kidding? There are 100s. Search for “spanking” or for your particular implement… as always, take advice with a grain of salt!!!

Other Sites with Info:
http://www.albanypowerexchange.com/B...pact_play1.htm --APEX’s index page for all things related to implements & impact
http://www.leathernroses.com/general...eneralbdsm.htm --LeathernRoses site with many good articles on Implements. Scroll down about halfway to “Implements” or “Types of Play” headers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_play --Wikipedia’s guide to Implement Play.
http://www.sexuality.org/search.php --Sexuality.org’s search page. Type in “spanking” or whatever implement you want to learn about. Provides essays on various personal experiences.
http://www.ashleysextoys.com/store/viewinfo.asp?id=43 --Midway down the page, additional info on the various implements. More generalized info with description of what the implements look like. This is a site for a store, so the links take you to things they sell.

REMINDER: PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT!!! SAFETY FIRST!!!

You know what? Thanks for all the time and effort you put forth in order to edumacate us newbies. This is one of my favs, but what are you going to use for "S" now? hehehehe

yummm spankings....thanks d for the info!!! :cheerlead

*writes many little notes* *chuckles evilly* *writes more notes*

hmmmm, *gets dazed look in eyes thinking....* thank d this is great, knowledge sooo much knowledge ha ha haaaaa

I still prefer my hand but I have grown very fond of floggers

yep


hand, flogger, and try out a ping pong paddle. It has a lot of sting from just a wrist snap, almost no "bruising" weight... and I think it is great alternating with my bare hand.

It also gives me a bit extra reach when I have her straddling me and I want to feel her clenching. ;)

Thank you the post, very educational and informative, answered a lot questions I had on spankings and types. Now know how to proceed.

I just got a lexan cane. It gives more thud than a bamboo cane, or a wooden dowel or a rattan cane.

Pretty fun.

With a belt, folding it over gives a good sound as the leather hits while striking the skin. Leaves good bruises too, and is flexible enough you can do it while fucking.

Oz, I have a paddle of that type but it is like a ping pong paddle on steriods. It was found in a thrift store unused it is at least half again the diameter of a ping pong paddle and much heavier handle and paddle. Not sure what game it is made for but it was made in Israel and has Matka on it. When it hits flesh it stings a very large area and makes a lovely red mark. The sound that it makes hitting flesh is truly wonderful. Yet I don't think I can do any damage with it since it impacts on such a large area. That of course mean used properly because using an edge I think would cut due to its weight.

Personally i like the willow switchs my Master keeps having me pull off his tree*giggles* :d
But all the other stuff is fun too

Thanks delia for all the great info.

Without a doubt, it just has to be a cane. It's solid and unyeilding, with a rawness that I love...but best of all, it leaves the most delicious marks. :)

Anyone who's tried skiing staffs? You'd have to blunt or cover in the tip at the lower end, though, if it's a very sharp one.

Very helpful although I think it is fairly unrealistic to expect there to be a "lifestyle store" anywhere near the average shopper. Big and medium cities will have plenty of shopping venues but many smallish and even medium cities will not. There must be some trustworthy online stores for some gear. I agree that all beginners are well advised to 'take lessons' and any retail outlet worth it's salt will advise against using certain implements without experience.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cassandra68

Very helpful although I think it is fairly unrealistic to expect there to be a "lifestyle store" anywhere near the average shopper. Big and medium cities will have plenty of shopping venues but many smallish and even medium cities will not. There must be some trustworthy online stores for some gear. I agree that all beginners are well advised to 'take lessons' and any retail outlet worth it's salt will advise against using certain implements without experience.

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Though rural areas won't have the kink outlets, you do have good quality leather products!! I much prefer to have a person versed in leather help me with my purchasing needs, than buy it online, or in a store.

As far as spanking implements, you can get good stuff at the local feed and seed. Usually about 1/4 the cost that can be gotten at the local kink store.

I prefer the traditional quirt for general purposes.

For assaults on areas requireing precision I prefer a crop, or a "switch".

For serious breaches of rules I rarely need to have her fetch my "Slut-Get-Right" stick, which many would also call a type of cane. It is actually my own modification of some PeX pipe (very limber water supply tube) simular but not as ridged as PVC and basically shatter proof (unlike PVC and or real canes).

Other than that it is hands on. Though in a pinch a wide variety of objects can work as improvised implements, shuch as the venusian blinds closer dangeling on the inside of nearly every hotel window.

WEG.

Impact play of any type is an intense and erotic form of play which more often than not creates a very strong bond between the Dominant and submissive.
As with all BDSM activities care should be taken when playing, only play if you are in a good state of physical and mental health.

There are many different striking ''toys'' Such as Singletail whips, Floggers, Paddles to name a few. Singletails are whips with one long tail (as opposed to floggers, which have multiple tresses). Bullwhips (Bullwhip crackers can cause severe cuts, and should not be used near exposed skin except by the very experienced and are generally used only for sound effects rather than sensation play) Signal whips, Stock whips and Blacksnakes,these are all types of Singletails.
Using very light, precise strokes with the tip of the whips tail, or distributing harsher lashes of the leather thong and cracker along the submissives back or buttocks can be extremely sensual and create strong feelings of fear, control, and often a deep connection during a scene.

Severe whippings can cause bruises, cuts, or occasionally permanent scars, depending on skin type, type of stroke (usually slices rather than blows) and the amount of force applied.Treat any cuts,bruises or grazing created by impact play as you would any other.
The more experienced you become, you will find you can control even more forceful strokes. It can be fun to crack the whip just before it hits, adding extra tension during play as this creates a loud noise while also spending some of the force before impact.

Thicker more solid flogger's impact deeper into the body it will not cut but again depending on the force of the blow can bruise quite easily particularly on more sensitive or older skin.

Flogger's are generally smaller many tailed flexible implements or strips of leather, rubber, suede or other similar materials. These deliver more of a burning or 'thud' sensation. The different sensations depend upon the width of the flogger. Floggers cover a smaller area and the smaller the area a blow is concentrated on there is a greater potential for damage, which is why better quality flogger tails are designed with rounded edges and tips.

Floggers with sharper edges are easier to use and less expensive, but as with all cheaper toys they do not last as long, and as always for better results and less likelihood of harm its always better to opt for quality rather than cost. The wider the tail, the more surface area to be forced through the air, and again the more lands at once on the skin

As a general rule for the same material, Thin, rounded thong tails sting much more than 5/8 inch wide flat tails, for example. The more tails a flogger has, the slower it travels, and the longer the tails are, more leverage is gained. Both make a flogger heavier, although the longer tails are much more difficult to control, many of the standard floggers tails are around 15 to 22 inches. A longer flogger has many different uses such as running it length ways down the whole of the back with one single strike, this technique is not recommended to begin with as it takes much practise and hard work to be done precisely.

The shorter designs are ideal for concentrating on much smaller areas such as working on one nipple at a time. For safety, flogger tails should be firmly fixed to the end of the handle, this is where the most stress occurs in use. A solid covering knot will help reduce any strain, and keep the tails together. It will also help to prevent slippage. Work the handle with your hand and not against it, use a flogger with a handle which is not too large or small for a good grip.
Shorter handles are easier to control, longer handles give more leverage. When selecting your flogger test the weight of the handle, does it 'feel' right with the tail.
This is something you need to judge for yourself. Practise a few swings with a few different selections decide which feels the most natural and comfortable to handle. It should be fairly obvious the softer the material the softer the sensation upon the skin.
To begin with opting for softer materials is something to consider depending on the bottoms pain levels, what may be nothing more than a light blow for one could be extremely painful and unpleasant for another,

Use lighter strokes on the lower legs, arms, inner arms, breasts and genitals as the skin is more delicate in these areas. Also at the top of buttocks near the spine use lightly and with caution and accuracy (the ribs and kidneys are not protected with muscles). For obvious reasons do not use on the face, head, neck, healing skin or fingers and toes (Tiny bones in fingers and toes break very easily and do not mend well). The thighs are a good target for light paddling or caning, but only well-muscled thighs should be a target for heavy impact play.

Care should be taken on the genitals and treated fairly gently. We all need taking that bit further but after much experimenting I would not advise too harsh a treatment in this area! Floggers tails made of thin rubber are great for genital flogging because they can provide a nasty sting with little force. Remember during any genital play that an erect penis is more vulnerable than it is flaccid.

Many bottoms prefer a 'warm up' to begin with.The best way of doing this is to start slowly and lightly, by placing the flogger on the skin, holding the tail tips in one hand and the handle in the other, moving slowly back and forth on the skin. Then a slow caress with the tips for a while before landing that first blow.
The idea being that although the force intensify's, the feeling remains much the same, matching the growing ability of the submissive to enjoy the increasing sensations.

For a harsher more painful experience instead of building up gradually vary the speed and strength of the blows, alternate with different implements don't let the bottom become used to one particular sensation, it's amazing what a bit of surprise and tension can achieve. Experiment, try tightly restraining and/or blindfolding, gagging, striking different areas of the body randomly.
For extra sensation drip or pour a little hot wax, cold water or trail over the sensitive skin with an ice-cube. If you enjoy the sight of your submissive(s) jumping, writhing around and those pitiful little squeals you are almost certain to get it! Check for any broken skin beforehand)

Flogging/whipping has a strong emotional impact and there is usually a very close connection both during and after play,
It can be an intense and often tiring experience when playing for prolonged periods. Both Dominant and submissive may find they need a short ''cool down'' period.

Thank you icey....i always love your posts!

thankyou Thrall :)
i dont know what happened i thought id started a new thread, sorry Delia i didnt mean to post on yours! which was very interesting and informative thankyou.

a personal favourite in the 'household items' category has to be a length of electrical cable right before He wraps it around my tits; used right it has a surprising amount of bite to it (although still quite gentle - a good warmup), doesn't mark and you can have fun varying the length for different sensations.

sounds odd, but try it

Great post!

(I own so many "implements"...lol, it's like an addiction!)

J is for jerking off while being spanked

These are a few of the home-made toys I have come up with over time, or others have shown me and I have adopted/adapted. All are easy, inexpensive, and effective; I hope others find them as much fun as I have.

Screwy C’pins: Take wooden clothespins, and with a very thin bit, drill a pilot-hole thru both jaws together, right in the center of the fat part of the jaws where they make contact. Then *take small screws, or better yet, small eye-screws, that have a ring on one end-such as are used in fine cabinetry, sand the points off to slightly round them, and prevent immediate breaking of the skin, and screw them thru the pilot holes so the points meet in the middle, and stand sightly proud of (say, 1/16") the wood. This focuses the pressure down to just those 2 tiny points... and the screw are Infinitely adjustable to achieve the Precise degree of pain desired. The eye-screws also allow weights to be hung easily.

tacky-pads..... Take 2 thick acrylic scrub-pads (dollar store)- get the ones as thick as the standard thumb-tack is long, and put one tack right in the very center. Then make a pattern of your preference... a star, concentric circles, diamonds- centered around that first tack. Wear those pads inside your bra for a day.*The tips will not break the skin, but they should dimple it nicely- and pre-sensitize your tits for play later in the evening, if you wear them thru the day.
Another thumb-tack idea I've had good results from is *a seat-pad made out of two mouse-pads... one thick, and the other thin. The thick one, again, should be as thick as the shaft of your tacks is long- *with your name, say, being 'jen', I'd make 2 J's out of tacks, pushing them thru the thick pad, so that when you sit upon the pad, the curves of the j are on your buttocks, with the long shaft running down the back of your thighs. Vary the initial to the individual; the main thing is to cover the buttock and the back thigh as much as you can. Once you have the tacks in place- *glue the 2nd pad over the heads of the tacks to sandwich them in place... and use the pad when sitting at the computer, or wherever. It's a good way not to fall asleep in traffic, too...;)

Blind-cord flogger: - take that 1/8" thick white cord they use for living-room Venetian blinds? Get 9 lengths of it, 10' long; tie them into groups of 3 with a small knot at the one end (Or, just lash them if you don't want the knot-bulk. I find it useful, myself). Braid a normal 3-strand braid up for 16-18", and then wrap a lashing around to keep the braid from un-ravelling; make 2 more just like the first. Then lash all 3 knotted ends together (the little knots then make a nice pommel to stop it slipping from your hand in use), and braid the braided sections up together in that same 3-strand braid, till you have the handle-length you want. Lash it well, at that point, and put as many knots and such along each flail as you like, then cut the flails to your preferred final length- and, voila!

Lamp-cord Martinet- Take a 12-15’ length of lamp-cord, split it into it’s two halves, then find the center-point of each half, and knot them together at that point. Then do a basic 4-cord braid for the length of handle you want, and knot the cords again to finish the braid and leave the tails free to be trimmed to your preferred length. Of you use 2 lengths of unsplit lampcord, you can divide them after the handle-braid for an 8-tail cat. But, be warned! Both of these should only be used lightly, until you see how they handle and the impact they have. Either one can badly cut flesh if used too hard.

The Persuader: Take any belt, and put it around the lass'es waist- it is unimportant other than as a support for the persuader, so any belt will do. Take 2 reasonably-thick (say, 1/16", good-quality) leather strips, approx 3/4" to 7/8" wide, tapering slightly to each end, and about 6-8 " in length. Take, then, 1" long straight-pins, and put them along the one strip as it is laid flat, alternating points and heads, drawing the heads to the outer edge of the strip, but not actually 'On' to it. Cover at least 4" of the length, Mine has a pin every 1/4", so the points show 1/2" apart. Then glue the other strip atop it, without disturbing the pins, and put two long laces, one at each end, to tie it front and back on the belt. When she is bent, the strip is tied to the back of the belt, then pulled taut to the front so it lays along her crease, esp. over her anal ring and almost to her ‘taint’ , which is splayed as she is bent- not enough to hurt, just enough to give purchase. But if she tries to stand, or clench, under the cane, she is ‘persuaded’ this is unwise.

Electric pony. Take a galvanised metal plate, tack it to a square of plywood- solder a wire to one corner. This is the standing-area for the sub, so make it at Least 2’ square, preferably 3’. Then take a 6-v flashlight battery (or a 9-v, together with it’s little cap-connector-pad, and hook to the wires from it.) and hook one post up to that wire. Next. Take 2 stiff plastic pipes 2” dia., minimal) and mount them solidly into floor-stands; if you can also attach them to the roof so they are rigid, this is best of all. On these pipes, set 2 adjustable clamps that can slide up and down to any desired height- and between these two clamps, secure a copper pipe as long as the two uprights are apart- again, stiff, not flexible. I found 1” seemed to work well. To this pipe, solder another wire, leading back to the 2nd post on the battery. If the lass stands on tip-toe on the galvanised plate, one sets the cross-bar to say, 1/2”-3/4” below her crotch. As long as she stays on tip-toe, she’s fine- but as her thighs and labia touch the cross-pipe, the circuit completes. And all shocks are below heart level, and DC current, too- totally safe, unless there is a medical condition.

Sting: Take an electronic wasp-killer- pref. One that uses a 9-v battery- the kind that look like a child’s toy plastic tennis racquet, with steel cross-bars instead of netting. Cut the entire head off, being careful not to cut the wires that lead from the capacitor to the head you are removing. When you can see those, take as much slack as you can in the wire, keeping most in the handle end, and cut it free. Then take 2 of the steel cross-bars, and solder one to each of the two capacitor wires.
Finally, wrap each connection well in electrical tape, then build up the whole head of the handle with the tape to form a flexible seal that allows the two free tips of the steel rods to be adjusted for distances apart. Mine can go from a 1/8” spark-gap to 6”. I.e., from the width of a clit or sphincter, to any area on the body, really. Touching both sides of the vaginal wall can be interesting if one holds the on-button down. She clenches up, and the shocks keep coming.. (well, *I* think it’s fun)

Labia-clamps. Take a pair of pants-hangars that have the cam-neck and a cross-bar that divides when the neck is twisted sideways (They hold pants by their cuffs, to avoid creasing across the knees). Cut off most of the wood, leaving just enough to leave the metal and neck still solidly attached- then sand the corners round and smooth, and line the inside faces of the cross-bars with sandpaper to help the grip. When applied, they grip the whole labia- and the neck-hook can then be put beneath her garters, so she is held totally open for whatever you may wish.

PEX cane. Take a 36” length of 1/2” PEX tubing (used for plumbing). It is very flexible- so I then took a 1/4” wooden dowel, sanded it just enough to fit in the PEX, coated it with glue, and inserted it down the center of the tube, then left it to set. This is lightweight, stiff enough to be Very accurate- and one of the few toys I have poppet fears. Adjust the length to your own preferences; if you have large hands, make the handle longer than 6”, etc. This is one thing I Do like- the toy can be tailor-made to one’s own specs.

Hot Needles. Acquire up to 1 dozen, but minimally 6, biology-kit dissection needles, like you used to see in high school when they hauled out the frogs. A 6-8” wooden handle, with a 2 to 2-1/2” steel point. You also need the alcohol burner from a fondue set, and you’ll have to bend a section of coat-hangar into a suitable rack (like in an ash-tray, for holding the cigarettes) so that it will hold the needles in a circle around the burner, with the tips all held in the flame. The idea with these is NOT to penetrate the flesh, but just to touch the tips to the skin. I can usually get 2 touches before the needle needs a re-heat. I can space the touches as closely as every square 1/4”, if I wish- so one can take a LONG time to even cover a single breast. And under/behind the knees, or in the armpits, or the inner walls of the vagina, when she is held open by the above-mentioned labia-clips, ought not to be neglected either. Again- DO NOT penetrate the flesh- you want to Hurt her, not Cook her.

zipper. I included this as I was asked to; most people know of it already. I cannot take any credit here. Take a length of string, and along it, separating the clothespins by about 2-1/2" , or even 3”, between, string the clothespins, tying knots on each side of the pin to keep it in its place. Try to get a dozen or so pins on each zipper- I really prefer 13, just 'because'-lol. When one attaches all the clothespins, you see- say, across the breasts from nipple to nipple, or with 2 of them, over the breasts and down both sides- then with one swift yank undoes them all from you- it feels like you are being 'un-zipped'. Hence the name.


Fan-belt single-tail : This is for Serious players ONLY! Take the well-worn fan-belt off a car when next one is replaced- if it is broken, simply cut the ends clean, then mount to a handle; otherwise, slice it into a single length instead of the loop, and mount to a handle. Only the well-used ones will straighten out to a single-tail; new ones won’t lose the bend. But this is heavy! It has Impact! And it Hurts! Be Very careful till you get the feel of it.

Shoe-horn - There is a style of plastic shoehorn, that comes in assorted colors, that is about 20’ long, with a 2” ring molded at the end-bulge at the end of the handle, to hang the shoehorn from. This toy needs NO modification. The slight curve at the tip almost perfectly matches the curve of a buttock; the convex side gives one type of impact; the concave side, due to air-compression in the hollow, a different kind. And again, no need to over-exert oneself, it is All in the wrist-action. This is an Exceptional! Spanking tool; I recommend it to Every toybox.

Eeny-meany-miney-Mo Eeny-meany-miney-and-Mo are 4 paddles I cut from 1/4" plywood- the blades are 30" long, with a 6" handle, for total 3'. The blades vary from 1-1/2' (eeny), 2-1/2" (meany), 4" (miney), and 6" (Mo). All have a rounded tip, and the edges sanded to remove the corners. and Mo has a series of 3/8" holes, set 1” apart down the vertical rows for a distance of 2’ (The Impact area), all chamfered on both sides, drilled in 3 rows off-set from one another (staggered, sideways) and the outer 2 rows set 1-1/4" outwards from the central one. When it is used, the flesh gets pushed up into the holes, you see.... an effect one has to experience; no description, I'm told, can do it justice. However, all of the others get very high ratings from the subjects each was tested on- eeny, it was unanimously judged, was deceptive indeed. One caution : Make SURE to chamfer the holes. Otherwise, you get a cookie-cutter effect in the holes, and you can actually remove small divots of skin and flesh if the impact is hard enough; the flesh almost vacuum-seals into the hole, and cannot release in time as the paddle comes away. So- Be CAREFUL


Small hair-clips - There are small plastic hair-clips, sold a dozen or twenty to the card, for small girls’ hair; they open along a central spring, like a clam-shell, and have little teeth or fingers along each rim; they often are shaped to look like butterflies, or small flowers. These make Excellent nipple and labial clips for long-term wear; if the lass rotates them 90 degrees every half-hr or so, they can be worn all day long with no ill effects, tho the nipples Will get very sensitive, especially if they’ve also been confined in a bra. On the labia, they can be positioned so that as she walks, they click together and slightly catch on one another, to provide a constant stimulation by their pulling and tugging. These are bought, not made- but are very inexpensive, and can provide excellent ‘light’ play thru the day.


There. These should give anyone who wishes something to get the sensations desired, from mild to medium to Holy-FUCK!--ow!ow!ow! Hope you enjoy them as much as poppet and I have.

One other I forgot to add, and it IS only 'seasonal'... but Stinging Nettles make an Excellent flogger (if one wears gloves oneself, of course), plus they do very well as a saddle-pad on the wooden pony, And, finally, the large leaves work quite well as a bra-cup liner for the day.. And Scotch Thistles also work well as a flogger, tho not as well for the other two purposes.